A final farewell to Mumbai...

Wednesday, August 10th
    I’m so bummed!  I went to have top made that is to be worn under my sari.  They can’t have it made by Friday.  It’s my own fault for not ordering it sooner. 
Thursday, August 11
    I did some marketing videos today at the center.  It was actually pretty fun.  It was just me standing there talking about different trading subjects.  Brandon was in the office next door and as they were counting down, he did his best to make me laugh.  It worked.  They had to start over.  When we got back to the apartment, Priya had made an awesome home cooked meal for all of us.  It was delicious!  The three of us drank some champagne and played India Monopoly.  So fun…instead of Boradwalk and Park Place they have Mumbai and Delhi. 
Friday, August 12
    I can’t believe this is my last day!  Priya, Brandon, Charmaine and I went to the Tasting Room for dinner.  It was lovely.  Well, except for Priya’s fish.  I think it made her sick.  Brandon has to work in the morning so Charmaine and I hit the Blue Frog for a few drinks.  It’s a really fun night club. 
Saturday, August 13, 2011
    My last day!!  I went by the center to say goodbye to everyone.  I feel so blessed to know the people I’ve met here.  They are absolutely amazing.  Their kindness and hospitality go above and beyond.   I will miss my new friends, their warm greetings, and contagious smiles.  I will also miss the 9:30 am Indian breakfasts and seeing all the beautiful kurtas.
    This evening Brandon and I went to the ‘pharmacy’ to get some things for Priya; she’s been unwell.  They are walk-up drug stores and prescriptions are not required.  On our way I noticed children playing cricket in the open spaces between buildings while one man rested on top of a wagon.  Others were busy working; some sat on the streets and chatted with one another.  At one shop a man had a knife sharpener powered by a bicycle.  They work hard in conditions unacceptable to us, but they don’t know any other way.  They seem happy. 
    We walked through the streets sampling various foods and drink along the way.  We shared an Almond Masala Milk, unpasteurized milk with almonds floating in it.  It was quite good.  The woman behind the counter had a broad smile, every other tooth missing.  Her eyes told her story; she was happy that we were there. Several proprietors insisted that we taste their foods.  The people were delighted to offer things to us. One man asked me to take his picture.  I was honored to do so.
    I had walked through this area before, but that day I looked and couldn’t see.  There is so much here.  I was looking on the surface and failed to see the true beauty which only lies in the heart.  Mumbai has heart…it’s people. 
    I don’t think I am saying goodbye, but maybe see you later. 

August 4-7

Thursday, August 4
I saw an entirely new side of India today. It was wonderful. On the way to Nashik, we passed beautiful, green fields with flowers blooming. Well paved roads wound through the countryside. The fog dipped down to touch the mountain tops as waterfalls spilled over the scenic cliffs.
Several hours later, Priya and I checked into the Taj Hotel. Wow, what an amazing place! Marble stairscases and a well carved balcony surrounded the elegant two story lobby with a huge chandelier dangling in the center. Many small seating areas designed for socializing filled the room. The fabrics were lush with bright pillows tossed about.
After settling in, we headed down to the restaurant. We decided that our mini vacation should start with a Sula dindori reserva wine made right here in Nashik, Maharashtra. Priya ordered several small plates for us to share: malai murj tikka (chicken marinated in yoghurt and aromatic spices), gosht baghar (lamb cooked with spices and yoghurt, tempered with mustard seeds, fenugreek and red chillies) and dal makhini (simmered black lentils). I’ve come to expect the food to be delicious here, and it didn’t disappoint.
After that amazing lunch, we headed to Sula Winery. The roads were curvy and unmarked. At one point we came to a complete stop, but it wasn’t from the typical Mumbai traffic. Several homeless cows decided to have a discrepancy right in the middle of the road. There was a moment of concern for the front end of Priya’s SUV, but they wondered off to the side and allowed us to pass.
Finally, we arrived at the magnificent gates at the entrance to Sula. Priya’s friend owns the winery, but unfortunately he was out of the country. One of his associates took us on our scheduled wine walk at 4:30. Afterwards, we sampled some more dindori on the balcony overlooking the vineyard. It was a beautiful night. Two Americans who were touring India sat next to us and we ended up chatting with them for a bit.
When we arrived back at the Taj, we decided to order room service for dinner. The prices here are amazing. Both of us had dinner and drinks; including the service the total was about $22 USD. Amazing.
Friday, August 5th
After breakfast we decided to take a morning swim. The water was chilly at first, but felt wonderful. One of the staff asked us if we would also like to use the Jacuzzi and steam room. Why not? We were given towels that were large enough to go around us three times, so I wrapped mine like a sari. What a great way to start the day.
We had arranged for a late checkout and then hung out at the hotel taking pictures.
Saturday, August 6th
First day of my last class. I can’t believe I am leaving here in 7 more days!! I have so much that I still want to do!
Sunday, August 7th
I awoke to the sound of the doorbell at 1 am. John (another instructor) had flown in with Brandon from the US. Before heading back to bed, I showed him around our flat and gave him the basic information about how to turn on the water heater, cap the drain and use the remote for the air conditioner in his room. He will only be here for a day or two, so I kept it brief.
After class, Priya had her driver waiting to take John and me to a birthday party for Brandon that had started a few hours earlier. I was grateful that I didn’t have to explain to a taxi driver where she lived in Juhu (north Bombay). When we arrived the drinks were flowing and a lovely assortment of Indian foods covered the tables. I had a wonderful time chatting with Priya, her friends and getting to know Brandon better.

Pictures of the Taj and Sula Winery trip:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1878296038925.2092952.1286986094&l=946f7a4f58&type=1

 

Aug 2-3

Tuesday, August 2
    Darek tapped on my door when he heard the roar coming from my room at 1:30 am this morning.  After long train delays returning from Madhubhan Spa, we had just arrived back at the guest house.  The maid, Lata had left the drain cover off after cleaning the shower.  I was attempting to hold a vacuum cleaner upside down to remove the small bugs that made their way up through the drain and now covered my bathroom ceiling. Once I was finished, I handed the vacuum over to Darek; his drain cap had been left off too.
    I awoke again at 9:30.  I knew Darek was exhausted and planned to sleep in.  He’s been traveling all over India and this was his first night back at the guest house. I quietly made my way to the dining room only to find him feasting on our breakfast that Rakesh had made 2 hours earlier.  I joined him for a lightly spiced veggie spread on toast which was actually very tasty.  We decided to call it a salad sandwich for lack of a better name. 
    Since he would only be here for one day, Darek was in need of some down time.  I assumed his time would be more restful alone, so I joined Priya for lunch.  Her driver came to fetch me at half twelve and dropped me at the Kapoor home.  Priya has her own apartment, but has a fully furnished room at her parents home.  We had a wonderful lunch at China Garden, a restaurant she has dined at since age 12.  Her driver dropped me back in time to see Darek off again.  He will be in other states until we both depart for the US on August 13th.
    After another tasty home cooked meal, I was enjoying the quiet of the evening when the doorbell rang. The man spoke quickly and all I understood was ‘milk’.
“You are delivering milk?” I asked as I peeped out the door to discover there wasn’t any. 
He taps on a tablet with a pen and says a few more words I couldn’t understand.
“Oh, you want to take an order for milk?” I asked and started to head for the kitchen to check the supply. 
“No, no, beal milk”
“Oh, you have a bill for the milk?”
“Yes, yes 512 rupees”
“Can you leave me the bill and I will take it to Raj.”
“512 rupees”
“Yes, I know but the apartment is owned by the company and they take care of the expenses.”
He seemed a little agitated now.  “512 rupees you pay”
“I know, just leave me the bill and I will give it to Raj,” I said, pointing at his tablet.
“I give beal,” he said in exasperation. 
“You already left the bill?” I asked, looking around on the table where bills are normally left.  At lunch I had asked Priya to write some sentences in Hindi, such as, ‘I want dinner tonight’ and ‘I want scrambled eggs.’  I wish I had known that I would need, ‘I don’t pay the milk bill.’
After a deep sigh, “I come back.”
“I think that’s a good idea,” I replied, hoping I wouldn’t be here to answer the door next time.
Wednesday, August 03, 2011
    I intended to sleep in but woke up at 8:00.  I heard Rakesh in the kitchen and decided that a fresh, hot breakfast sounded good.  After eating my pancakes, a different man came to collect the milk bill.  I smiled, shook my head and said, “Not my bill.  Come back later.”
    When Rakesh returned to clean up my dishes, I tried to ask about the ‘milk beal’.  He didn’t understand so I went to get my laptop and typed in, ‘Who pays the milk bill?’ on Google Translate.  Rakesh pulled the bill from his wallet after reading the Hindi translation.  After a few more sentences on Google, I gathered that Rakesh was taking the bill to Raj today.  I wish I would have thought of Google Translate 5 ½ weeks ago.
    Priya had a meeting near the Palladium Mall so we met at Asia Seven for lunch.  It’s a great restaurant right next to the Food Hall that I had on my list to try.  Priya also pointed out a place to have the top made to match my sari.  I can’t wait to put it on.  She’s not much of a traditional Indian woman so we decided that Lata would have to help me wrap up.
    Priya needed to get to her meeting, so I went shopping for a bit.  At one store I had 3 male clerks picking out clothing and bringing it to me.  The service here is amazing, but I think I get a little extra special treatment. 
    I bought a dress that I had looked at two times previously and tried on once.  I hesitated to buy it because it has red and green on it (but a small amount).  Many things have that color combination which is very appropriate for India.   I’ve explained to several clerks that if I wear green and red in the summer time in the US, everyone will ask me why I am wearing a Christmas dress.  I finally paid Rs.1595 ($35) and decided I will wear it to my sister’s house on Christmas Eve. 
    I am heading to bed and really looking forward to tomorrow.  It hasn’t rained much for 2 days so Priya and I are going to the vineyards from Thursday to Friday afternoon.  She booked us at the Taj Mahal! 

Links for pictures

The new post (Mudhubhan Spa) has a link for pictures (you don't have to be on FaceBook to view them).  Here are some of the older pictures:

My Room:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1836051262832.2090946.1286986094&l=4421cef815&type=1

Darek & Priya:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1839930559812.2091120.1286986094&l=ba2dc75c90&type=1

Gateway of India, Taj Mahal Palace, Kapoor Home

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1866642067583.2092380.1286986094&l=dc424649b5&type=1

Graduation, Mount Mary, Dinner with Chethna:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1853388936263.2091687.1286986094&l=383e462c7a&type=1

Matt’s Family:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1836093743894.2090949.1286986094&l=0172226b8e&type=1

Lunch with Priya at Shiro:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1836071303333.2090948.1286986094&l=bdf59ab867&type=1

A Weekend with Priya:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1825484158661.2090404.1286986094&l=92afa0ace2&type=1

Mumbai ‘City market’ (slums)

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1820395871457.2090093.1286986094&l=e1e2aa7bc0&type=1

Phoenix Towers & the neighborhood:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1817040987587.2089885.1286986094&l=58fa6085db&type=1

First few days here:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1637468538388.2077589.1286986094&l=6d9c0dc682&type=1

July 31-Aug 1

Sunday, July 31
    I turned the alarm off twice before finally giving in at 4:10 am.  Raj was early, so I hurried down to the awaiting taxi.  We arrived at the train station where Amruta was already waiting.  With the monsoon rains, everyone expected travel to take much longer than it did.  We were joined by the other staff along the way, except Hari who missed the train and had to take a later one.
    The trip was booked too late for first class; it was full.  The coach section is not air conditioned, but has a fan over each seat.  With the rains and early morning commute, the temperatures were quite comfortable for most of the trip. 
    I watched out the window as the scenery changed from a cement jungle to wide open spaces.  Copious puddles spotted the green fields.  We passed small villages and shanty towns as we headed north to Gujarat.  Women hung clothes out to dry while others carried water or food on their heads. Cows and goats roamed aimlessly through the streets.  At each stop children played by the tracks while others begged at the station.  Many of them would stand at my window for the entire stop.  I knew that giving any amount could end badly for both of us.  The child may be beaten while others take the money from them; I would be mobbed. This is a world with too many and not enough.  Somehow in time you learn to accept this.
    The 8 hour trip was made fun by the crowd I was traveling with.  Several of the guys jumped off at every stop and chased the train when it started to move without them.  A card game started.  Kapil seemed to be the high roller…he won 2000 bucks from Tanmay and 300 from Subodh (about $52 total).
    We arrived in Anand in the early afternoon and took a rickshaw to the spa.  That was really fun because I had wanted to ride in one just for the experience.  The town looked like so many I’d seen before, but as we turned into the Madhubhan Spa, everything changed.  Palm trees, flowers and statues covered the beautifully manicured grounds.  The roads were well paved and very clean.  The entire place was very upscale.
    After checking in and a quick shower, we all met for lunch at 24/Seven where I tried a lot of new Indian foods.  I really liked almost everything I tried.  The food is outstanding and the service is excellent.  I have a new favorite dessert called Halwa.  It’s made in various flavors and served warm.  Anand is known for dairy products; so they also served fresh ice cream daily.  Amul (my new favorite canned iced coffee) is located in Anand. Needless to say I have regained whatever I lost by being so sick when I arrived here. 
    I had a great afternoon exploring the grounds and enjoying the bright sunshine.  It’s been raining most of the 5 weeks I’ve been here, so this was a real treat.  They were filming a Hindi soap opera at the spa so I watched them for a few minutes.  The stars were more than happy to pose with spa guests, but I didn’t know who any of them were.  I had watched a show for a few minutes at the apartment one day.  The over acting is hilarious; even more so live.  The others standing around laughed too, so I guess that’s intentional.  
    I decided to take advantage of the Sohum Spa (it’s the same chain of spas that Priya and I went to).  The prices were amazing.  I had a head and shoulders massage, manicure and hair conditioning for about $37 USD.  Wow, it was awesome.  The OTA crew thought it was appropriate that I chose the head and shoulders (that’s a trading pattern).  After Darek heard that he decided he would have the double bottom (another trading pattern).  He was probably disappointed when they didn’t offer that one. 
    That evening we met for drinks in one of the rooms.  Gujarat is a dry state, so drinking is an automatic 6 months in jail.  I guess that little fact wasn’t a big deal to any of our crew.   I learned a lot about my new friends; I didn’t know Neeraj was such a great dancer.   We moved our chairs back in the small room so he and Hari had room to display their talents.  Someone mentioned that Debbie means goddess.  I told them I was sure my mother knew that when she named me, but I was certainly glad they knew it as well. 
    On our way to dinner there was a band playing in the courtyard.  No one was there listening or dancing, until we arrived.  We brought the party with us; actually we were the party.  We danced and laughed and drew a crowd of observers. 
    After dinner we sat outside.  Darek shared a story about going to a temple with Giri.  Once they were inside the temple and taken on a brief tour, they were separated.  Each one went alone to visit the priest.  Afterwards, they were asked to pay Rs. 2100 (~$45).  Giri paid it; Darek had just arrived from the US and only had a few rupees from his previous trip.  Not knowing if Giri had money, he decided to keep enough for cab fare and offered them Rs. 250.  They weren’t happy but he told them to take it or leave it.  Everyone laughed about them getting the shake down at a temple.  It was especially funny because Giri is Indian and was taken for even more.  
    The stories were followed by charades and then a night of singing.  Luckily I got ‘Terminator’ in charades, so that was pretty easy.  Since the songs were mostly in Hindi, I just listened.  I can’t carry a tune in a bucket so even if they were in English, I would have just listened anyway.  Darek chimed in every once in a while by just waling out a sound that seemed to fit in.  I was cracking up at him.  Earlier during dinner when they all were laughing over a story told in Hindi I noticed Darek nodding and agreeing like he understood. We looked at each other and I realized that he had no idea what they were saying either.   He continued to bob his head up and down and laugh when they did.  I don’t think any of them noticed but I laughed so hard I had tears running down my cheeks.  He is hilarious. 
    The Spa shut the outside lights off so we assumed that was our clue that our singing party was supposed to end.  We went back to the room for more drinks and fun.  After I left the guys attempted to take an early morning swim, but the guards didn’t allow it. 
Monday, August 01, 2011
    The sun was shining bright when I woke up this morning.  I met the crew for breakfast and spent some time in the sun by the pool.  The party in the room resumed until lunch and then checkout.  I had a great time at a beautiful place.  The taxis back to the train were vans this time and the train was air conditioned.  Much better!....well except the rain delay....

Click this link for my pictures:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1869658542993.2092553.1286986094&l=8bba215e3b&type=1

July 29-30

Friday, July 29
    I sat alone in the backseat watching the rain drizzle down the window.   Outside a woman on the back of a scooter huddled against the driver, trying to shield herself from the monsoon rains.  Pedestrians navigated the wet sidewalks, dodging both puddles and umbrellas.    Tarps did little to keep the make-shift stores dry, but their proprietors seemed undeterred.  This is daily life in Bombay during this season.    
    As we approached my destination, the streets became cleaner, the stores permanent, the businesses more upscale.  Once through the gate, my door was opened and I was directed to the Kapoor home.  A servant greeted me with a warm smile as I entered the magnificent entry way.  Oil paintings and beautiful artwork outlined with gold covered the walls; statues sat on the floor giving it an elegant yet warm feeling.
    I was shown into the living room where I was greeted by Priya.  From this room I could see the waves of the sea tumbling over to create small white caps.  We walked through the sliding glass doors and onto a rounded balcony covered with plants and beautiful statues.  I stood looking at the palm trees and listening to the sound of the sea.
    Charmaine and Rethie joined us later.  We sat in the living room enjoying a lot of laughs while being served cocktails and snacks.   Priya’s mom, a delightful woman joined us for a drink.  With a thick English accent, Charmaine shared a story about having a tarot reading.  Her cards were selected by a parrot (there was also a mouse there, but she assumes she wasn’t ‘mouse worthy’).  After dropping 5 cards, the parrot finally selected one.  She was then told that ‘she was meant to be a man, but it’s ok’.  I laughed so much my stomach hurt.  She went on to discuss the uniqueness of McDonalds in India.  “Where else in the world do you have a ketchup squeezer; someone who is actually hired to do nothing except stand and squeeze your ketchup?”
    Dinner was served, a delicious meal with many choices including a chicken casserole, bread, salad, rice and a spicy gravy.  After dinner we went to a going away party for Nin who was leaving for London the next morning.  Nin has been in India for 18 months, but her visa is ready to expire. 
Saturday, July 30
    I awoke in the Kapoor guest room where I was served breakfast on a tea cart.  Priya joined me but she only ate a small roll while I devoured the scrambled eggs and toast.  I made a mental note to learn to say ‘scrambled’ in Hindi.  Rakesh is a good cook, but I can’t always express what I want. 
In the afternoon we headed down to the waterfront in Apollo Bunder to see the Gateway to India, Mumbai's most famous monument.  This triumphal arch made of basalt stone was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary.
    Across the street sits the famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.  The detailed architecture and magnitude of this place reminded me of Paris.  Priya pointed out the difference in the windows from where they had repaired the destruction from the 2008 bombings.  Afterwards we had lunch at Khyber, a very popular Indian restaurant.   The restaurant had a free standing marble staircase leading to our table on the balcony.   I had a Caipiroska , my favorite Indian cocktail, which is similar to a vodka mojito.
Priya ordered for us: Mutton chop Mughlai and kheema seekh kebob, tangi kabob , pudina tikka, and reshma kebob (chicken & lamb kabobs) and Roomali & Lachha Paratha (Indian breads).  We shared a small dish of Indian ice cream, which is amazing.   All of the food here is delicious and nothing like the so called Indian food I’ve had in the US. 
    We went back to the Kapoor family home to watch a movie.  We were served tea while we did our nails.  Neither of us were interested in the movie so we headed to a small department store called Parsons.  Priya needed to pick up some party supplies for Brandon’s birthday party.  I find these places so interesting because there are many things I’ve never seen before.   Priyas driver took me back to the apartment in time for dinner, a very tasty oriental noodle dish.  I stayed up until midnight chatting on skype, doing laundry, packing and playing on the internet.  Four am is going to come too early.  The train to Gujrat leaves at 5:45 am.

Click this link for my pictures:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1866642067583.2092380.1286986094&l=dc424649b5&type=1

 

Sunday, July 24th

“Ah-low”
“Pappu, this is Debbie.  I need to get Rakesh’s telephone number.”
“Number, yes.”
“Do you have his number?  Telephone number.  I need to talk to him.”
“Rakesh?”  
“Yes, Rakesh.  Can you have him call me?”
“You talk to Rakesh?”  It’s times like this that make me wish I had spent more time learning Hindi. 
“Yes, can you ask Rakesh to call me?”
“Yes, 10 minutes, I be up.”
    I am hoping that maybe in person I can point to his phone and get a number.  A few minutes later Pappu and Rakesh come through the door.  I am really grateful that Rakesh speaks a little more English, but sometimes it’s still a challenge.   I explain to Rakesh that Kapil from the OTA center will be staying in the apartment this week and he should plan on cooking.  I haven’t seen him in a couple of days and I wanted to tell him that I wouldn’t mind eating here too.  I’m a little tired of going out.
    Once that was settled I requested some wheat bread and more Kool Café (iced coffee).  He says he will bring 3 cans in the morning.  He brought 3 cans last time.  I’m not sure why we have a 3 can limit.  Brandon said they stocked the refrigerator with beer when he was here; surely Kook Café is a cheaper than beer.  It will be nice to have Kapil here to help communicate.
“Password.  He cook.”
“Password?” I ask, searching my mind for what he could be talking about.
“I no Visa, cost 1 crore, Rakesh visa.  He go.”  It’s then I realize he said or meant to say ‘passport’. 
I turn to Rakesh, “You got your Visa to go cook in Dubai?”  He nods and lowers his head.  Rakesh appears to be very shy.  “That’s great!  I’m very happy for you. You will love it.  Dubai is beautiful.”
After a few words back and forth with Pappu, I gather enough to know that he is asking if there is an OTA in the US where he can cook in their guest house.  I inform him that we stay in hotels there and this is the only center that has a guest house. 
    Pappu steps back into the kitchen.  “This is yours?”  I ask as he proudly holds out a tie.  I had noticed it had been on the counter for several days.  I assumed it belonged to one of them. 
    He studies it with a look of uncertainty and holds it out to me.  “You want me to tie it?” 
“Tie,” he says, pointed at himself.
“You want me to show you how to tie it?” I ask holding it to my neck.
“Yes, yes.”
    I have no way to communicate that I would be honored to show him.  He and Rakesh watch intently as I do a ½ Nelson.  I show him that my thin end sticks out the bottom and shake my head to indicate that is not correct.  I demonstrate again, this time getting it right.  I hand the tie to Pappu and with a little help, he ties it but it’s uneven.   I put the tie on again and tie it, slide it loose and hand it to him again.   His grin broadens as he studies the knot.  I can still see them both smiling as they head for the door.  He is very happy to not only own a tie, but also have one that’s tied.